Les multiples visages du Burkina-Faso (Fin)

Posté le 20/12/2013 | Auteur: Marc BOURREAU

Cascade de Banfora Cascade de Banfora

Bobo, c'est aussi un parfum et des couleurs. Celui du jus de bissap, des mangues, les motifs doux et travaillés des tissus que l'on retrouve dans son immense marché, au cœur de la ville. Au milieu des stands, la musique laisse place au concert des machines à coudre. On fabrique des pantalons, des robes, des chemises avec des motifs sur lesquels sont inscrits « journée internationale de la femme » ou encore « jour de Jésus ». Un autre tissu de couleur bordeaux et aux motifs raffinés porte le nom de « la fille du jardinier ».

 

La fin du séjour approche. Difficile de passer à Bobo sans faire un détour par la ville de Banfora, à deux heures de route à l'ouest du pays, sur la route de la Côte d'Ivoire.

 

Là-bas, nous retrouvons Lateef, un guide énergique et fin connaisseur des cultures de la contrée.

 

Avec sa Mercedes, il arpente les routes accidentées, de villages en villages à la rencontre des populations rurales. Lateef connaît par cœur la forêt de Banfora : son immense champ de canne à sucre issu de la période coloniale, sa cascade, ses dômes énigmatiques situés sur un plateau qui surplombe la région. Ces petites montagnes se sont formées au milieu de nulle part, creusées par la pluie et le vent. Certaines d'entre-elles laissent penser à des visages ou des animaux. Sur la route se succèdent des termitières géantes et d'immenses baobabs.

 

Après une bonne demi-heure de trajet, nous nous arrêtons dans un village, à quelques kilomètres de Banfora. Ces villages regorgent d'histoires et de légendes autours de la nature, nous assure Lateef.

 

Le voici enfin, le baobab sacré. Trois cents ans qu'il donne des feuilles, à deux pas des maisons écrasées par la chaleur. Il y a longtemps, cet arbre aurait sauvé le village de l'assaut de populations voisines. A l'approche des ennemis, son tronc se serait ouvert pour accueillir les habitants. Plusieurs centaines de personnes se seraient ainsi cachées dans le baobab. Les abeilles et les chauves-souris, installées au sommet de l'arbre, auraient même repoussé les assaillants.

 

Sous ses branches, deux enfants et un vieillard sont installés à l'ombre. Le vieillard, c'est le gardien de ce baobab. Soixante-dix ans dont cinquante passés au pied de l'arbre. Une vitalité impressionnante. Il nous accueille chaleureusement, le sourire jusqu'aux oreilles.

 

Depuis cet événement, les habitants sacrifient régulièrement des poules et des chèvres  en l'honneur de ce baobab.

A l'intérieur, chauves-souris et abeilles sont effectivement installées au sommet de l'arbre et le tronc est suffisamment grand pour accueillir plusieurs dizaines de personnes. Comme à chaque fois, difficile de dire s'il s'agit ou non d'une simple légende.

 

Avant de partir, Lateef récupère une sorte de râteau, utilisé autrefois dans les champs pour creuser la terre. Cet instrument traditionnel aujourd'hui désuet, complètera le musée qu'il est en train de monter, à Banfora. « Il faut préserver ce patrimoine culturel, avec l'apparition d'engins modernes, c'est toute une tradition qui disparaît. Il faut laisser une trace de cette histoire », raconte le guide.

 

L'heure tourne, il faut maintenant rentrer. Lateef nous donne rendez-vous dans quelques années, pour l'ouverture de son musée : « Le pays évolue très vite aujourd'hui. On construit des routes, les villes s'agrandissent. Vous verrez, dans 5 ans, le Burkina-Faso aura changé ».


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